Challenges of Matthew

Our travel south of Norfolk was interesting and a bit different from previous trips. First we got delayed at the Great Bridge lock. It seems that lots of NE wind over several days has resulted in extra high tides. The tide was too high for the lock to operate when we arrived, so we waited till the tide dropped a bit. Then we had to wait for the bridge just beyond the lock to open. Usually this is not an issue, since the timing of the two is coordinated. Because of the tide, the opening came off schedule, and the bridge, controlled by the town, would not make an adjustment. Oh well, no big deal. However, because of the delay, we couldn’t make our planned anchorage. 

Most people never get to see the subtle beauty of this part of the world.

Looking back as we travel the 20 miles of the Alligator-Pungo Canal on the ICW

We chose to anchor in the Currituck Sound. This began pleasantly, with just a bit air moving and a beautiful sunset. 

By morning, however, the boat was literally covered with some kind of bugs – I mean thousands! Fortunately they don’t bite, but they seemed to leave green slime everywhere, and they refused to leave.

Our next anchorage would be in the south end of the Alligator River, where we expected a new onslaught. Sandra had created a large net that would allow us to  cover the bimini. We also kept off the low anchor light and just used the one at the top of the mast.  We woke more or less free of bugs the next morning.

By this time, Hurricane Matthew was getting lots of our attention, so we decided to leave our normal route on the ICW and head to a marina in New Bern, NC. This location is more inland and well protected. We had stayed here for Hurricane Sandy a few years ago, and we were glad we did.

The hotel and condos will provide wind protection.

At the moment, we are waiting for the weather to hit, but Matthew continues to change course. We’ve been glued to our weather apps and television to try to learn all We can about the expectations anticipated by the NHC. I guess we aren’t as likely to get any hurricane force winds here according to current thinking . There may be some storm surge, but we are secure at a floating dock.

Lots of bears in New Bern

In the meantime,we’ll enjoy New Bern and wonder about how this storm will impact our continued travel south. Will there be lots of damage? destroyed marinas where we normally fuel up? newly created areas of shoaling that could prevent our progress?

I’ll send out an update after all this passes.

Captain Bob

Carpe Diem

Down the Bay on a Schedule

Our trip down the Chesapeake Bay turned out to be less interesting and appealing than we had hoped it would be. The first problem related to the fact that we were on a schedule. It’s never a good idea to be on a schedule as you are cruising, since this can influence decisions related to both safety and comfort. The schedule can also limit options to visit interesting places while traveling.

Our first full day south on the Bay brought us to the Magothy River just north of Annapolis. The travel went well, and the anchorage turned out to be both pleasant and well protected. It also turned out to be a good place from which to head to St. Michael’s, Maryland the next day.

This car carrier was heading up the Bay at 18 knots. We were forced to quickly change course to avoid getting in its way 

St.Michaels is a busy tourist stop. The marinas were full and the anchorage was filled with 25 or more boats. We went ashore to explore and were surprised to find only a couple of other dinghys at the town dinghy dock. I guess that some  had tied up at the Chesapeake Bay Maritime Museum instead. Since we had visited the Calvert Maritime Museum in Solomons earlier this summer, we weren’t motivated to spend the day touring this one, even though it’s supposed to be very nice. We did get some seafood at a waterfront restaurant and toured the shops in town. These were pretty pricey, so we mostly window shopped. 

One bit of history we did see in St. Michael’s – a replica of the boat John Smith used in 1608 to explore the Chesapeake with 14 other men. Must have been a bit crowded.

We left with the sunrise the next day and headed to Solomon’s where we planned to stay put while some weather came through. The weather forecasters were on target this time, as we got lots of rain and wind the next day. So we stayed aboard and got in some good reading.

This is where our schedule really began to interfere with our plans for comfortable travel. After spending two nights, we wanted to get moving.  The days were flying by, and we wanted to get to the Hampton Roads area in two to three more days. So we left and ended up getting a little beat up by the steep waves in the Bay. They weren’t dangerous – just pretty uncomfortable. We managed to get south of the Potomac and anchored in the Great Wicomico River for the night. We expected one more day of travel but the weather wasn’t forecast to change much for several days. We thought we might wait one more day but then decided we’d better head out. Another bumpy day but we got to the Severn River… just a little late to get a slip at the marina. The next morning we moved into a slip where we expected to keep the boat for a week while we visited our daughter Jennifer and did some provisioning. Oh, and I should add that the schedule was created in part so I could make a scheduled doctor appointment. I was on time for that too.

The visit was great and we filled the boat with food and fuel for the next segment of our journey. We especially liked the provisioning at Trader Joe’s in Newport News, Sandra’s favorite grocery store. 

With the water tanks full and the laundry done, we ended our visit and left the slip. You probably assumed that meant getting to Norfolk and Hospital Point on that day, but you’d be wrong. We are no longer on a schedule, and the weather forecast included small craft advisory for the southern Bay, so we went less than a mile and dropped anchor. We were glad we did, since the winds hit the upper twenties. The Bay would have been nasty. We enjoyed our stop relaxing a bit. Sandra caught a few crabs, so we had a treat as well.

Our anchorage the day before we moved to Norfolk. The last photo in this blog provides a real contrast in settings.

Today offered better weather, so we headed out for our last day in the Chesapeake Bay and on to Norfolk. This portion of our travels has the potential for being almost as intimidating as NYC, and today was no exception. First we were passed by a Navy war ship.



Then we sailed through an area being used by the Navy for some sort of training. Fortunately I had read about it in a monthly email from Tom Neale. Several boaters were called be a security boat and told they must change course to avoid the restricted area. As we passed by the Atlantic Fleet, a patrol boat came up close to keep us from getting too close to the ships. This wasn’t a big boat, but the machine gun on the bow spoke to us.

We did get a few photos in spite of the intimidation. This last one was a submarine.

As we arrived at Hospital Point to anchor, we noted that the anchorage was full of crab pots. We managed to find a spot to drop the anchor without tangling any lines, but we wonder how it will work in a couple of weeks when the southbound crowd begins to arrive.

So, as the photo below demonstrates, we are at mile marker O of the Atlantic Intracoastal Waterway. We’ll be on this waterway most of the remainder of our trip south to the Keys.

This may not look like much, but this navigational aid marks the official beginning of the AICW.

The view from our anchorage tonight is somewhat different from last night’s.

Till the next entry into this blog . ..

Captain Bob

Carpe Diem

Back in the Chesapeake

This past week of travel has reminded me of how different the coast of New England is from Long Island which is also different from the coast of New Jersey. Now that we have entered the Chesapeake once again, I see yet another variation in appearances. 

Yes, we arrived in the Chesapeake Bay yesterday, a milestone in our trip to the Keys. We were fortunate to stay on Mother Nature’s good side. However we delayed leaving Onset a couple of days to allow the ocean to settle some after Hermine stirred it up. 

For this portion of the trip we are on a bit of a schedule – never a good idea when cruising. But we need to be in the southern Chesapeake for a couple of appointments later in the month, so we found ourselves working out how that could happen without making bad travel decisions with respect to the weather. Our greatest challenge was to do the overnight sail down the coast of New Jersey with reasonable weather.  But we also would be out in the ocean for parts of two days as we traveled to Block Island and then on to Long Island Sound.

Tidal current provided one of the challenges. When you travel at only 6 or 7 mph, a tidal current of 1 to 2 mph can impact travel time significantly either for good or bad, depending on your direction of travel. Heading west into Long Island Sound required us to travel through the Race, a narrow portion at the east end of Long Island Sound where the tide can run at 4 mph or more. Hitting that area at the wrong time can add hours to our travel time.  The same is true of the East River down along Manhattan where the tidal current is equally strong.

So as I said, we were lucky on the whole. During the trip to Block Island, the seas were a bit rolly, but better than we thought they might be. We would have liked to stay a day or two on Block Island, but our timeline would not allow it.  We hit the Race at slack tide (the brief time with no current). Actually we had to fight the tide getting to the Race, but the building favorable current helped us make up the time afterwards.

Our first night in the Sound was spent at Truman Beach. We prefer to call it Jellyean Beach, because of its unique nature. It’s certainly not a typical sandy beach. Instead we found the entire beach to be covered with small, rounded pebbles that look very much like jellybeans when the are wet. It’s not a beach for long walks, however. Imagine walking on ball bearings.  But we really enjoyed our stop there.

Sandra collecting”jellybeans”

This was our presidential tour of the Sound. We left Truman Beach for Port Jefferson and then continued on to Port Washington. Port Washington is cruiser friendly, offering free moorings for the first two nights and a dinghy dock practically across the street from a large grocery and a short walk to a West Marine. We took advantage of both. We also enjoyed a quiet meal at a very nice Indian restaurant which also was close to the dock.

The next morning we were off as soon as the sun offered enough light, so we could get to the East River and benefit from the tidal current. We passed through Hell Gate to enter the river. It sounds bad, but at slack tide, it was a piece of cake. The current did help, and pushed us to as much as 12 mph at times. It’s always special to slide down the East River by the UN building as well as getting views of the other prominent buildings including the Chrysler Building, the Empire State Building, and the 9/11 Memorial. We did our best to avoid all the commercial traffic in the river and in the Harbor. As I mentioned on our trip north through the City in June, we were reminded of how busy the water is around NYC. The high speed ferries were the most intimidating.

Always a spectacular view!

Then it was out to sea. For some reason the weather forecast for the ocean never seems as accurate as the land forecast. I know that you are thinking that those forecasts aren’t so good either. Well these tend to be even less accurate. So in spite of the calm forecast, we had a rolly time for the first several hours at sea. The conditions settled some during the night, however. 

Our only bit of excitement came around midnight as we passed by Atlantic City. A large fishing trauler came out of the inlet and then moved up next to our boat, crowding us off our course. It was traveling just a bit faster, so it took some time to pass us. I finally slowed a bit to allow it to pass, so I could get back on my course and let him by before he crowded me any further off course. . I guess since they were working and I was merely cruising, my travel was of little consequence. The event at least helped keep me awake for a bit. 

The remainder of the trip to Cape Henlopen and the entrance to Deleware Bay was uneventful, and the seas became quite settled. We arrived before 9AM and crashed for little sleep. We explored the beach in the afternoon and enjoyed our isolation overnight. 

The sun showed itself over the Atlantic as we headed up Deleware Bay.

The next morning we left as soon as the sun provided some necessary light. Our goal was to take advantage the tidal current in the Bay as much as possible before it turned against us. On our spring trip north we saw no commercial traffic in the Bay or in the C&D Canal.  This trip was different. A number of freighters passed by. In fact two passed each other right by us. The channel isn’t that wide. I would not want to be the pilot of one.  In the canal two tugs with attached barges passed as well. It always pays to remain alert.

So as I stated in the beginning of this update, we are back in the Chesapeake. We’ll do our best to enjoy that which the Chesapeake offers. Rather than lobster, mussels and clams, it will include blue crabs and oysters. We will no longer be concerned about large ocean waves. Although we know that Bay can be nasty at times, such weather is avoidable. So we’ll enjoy the Bay sailing before we enter the next segment of our journey: the ICW.

More Bay blogging ahead.

Captain Bob

Carpe Diem

Sandra is always busy as we travel. Baskets are a focus when she’s not at the helm.

The Trip South Begins

The last blog update was sent from Bar Harbor, Maine on Mount Desert Island. This was as far downeast as we managed to travel. 

After leaving Bar Harbor we made a couple more stops in the Mount Desert Island area before heading back southwest along the coast. 

A final view of Mt. Desert Island as we departed

The first day we traveled to Little Cranberry Island, one of five islands that make up the Cranberry Isles. The town of Isleford on Little Cranberry has a year-round population of all of 56 people. Ferries and a mail boat service the island and of course the residents probably all have boats. 

A Bald Eagle we saw on Little Cranberry Island

During the summer months visitors arrive on a daily basis, but the population shrinks to that low number during the colder months of the year. There is a one-room schoolhouse on Great Cranberry Island serving first through eighth grades with 12 students. For high school they must take a boat to Mount Desert, move in with a relative on the mainland or attend a boarding school. For all supplies, the population must travel by boat, since there are no stores on the islands for clothes or groceries or other needs. (Shop-a-holics would find life here impossible.)

Lobstering is the one major industry on this island group. I heard that last year they took in more than a million pounds of lobsters. Of course for most of them the lobsterung season does not last 12 months, so the remaining winter months are long and isolating – one of the real challenges to island life. 

We enjoyed our short visit on Little Cranberry as we tried to imagine what life was like for those who call this home. From there we began to work our way back the way we had come.  We spent two nights at Vinalhaven before heading over to Rockland. 

  We saw 4 schooners like this one leaving the harbor as we arrived.

Once there, we walked the mile-and-a-half to a grocery store. In Rockland and I enjoyed a nice meal of mussels, perhaps my last this season,while Sandra tried some lobster bisque. From there we traveled through Muscongus Bay to a quiet anchorage at Cow Island. This  bay is a quieter one than either Penobscot Bay up around Rockland, Vinalhaven and Camden or the more Southerly Casco Bay near Portland. We did a bit of kayaking from our anchorage at Cow Island and managed to see a few seals on the Rocks resting at low tide. They slid into the water as we approached but came closer to check us out – great fun! 

A seal checking us out

From there it was a Rockin and Rollin day getting back to Casco Bay and one of our favorite anchorages at Snow Island where we spent the night. We couldn’t pass up one more chance to visit South Freeport so we could walk the three miles into Freeport to L. L. Beans as well as a few outlet stores. The hard part was walking back the 3 miles with our backpacks full of groceries – the challenges of cruising without bikes. We left Casco Bay as the sun rose the next day to aim for our last stop and Maine. We traveled to Kittery and spent the night on the mooring just north of Portsmouth, New Hampshire. Our travel from Kittery to Boston was a much smoother ride and more enjoyable for that reason. After a night in Boston Harbor we set out for Onset and managed to pass through Cape Cod Bay while small craft advisory had been established. It was a bit bouncy with lots of spray but we managed to get to the Cape Cod Canal just as the tide was supposed to be turning and we could use the tide current to help us get to Onset. Of course the theoretical slack tide time turned out to be a little off and we did have to fight the tide for the first portion of the journey through the canal. We anchored in Onset just where we had anchored here back in June. 

During the first weekend here it seemed that Onset was celebrating the coming end of summer. A sidewalk painting competition was held during the day and a grand illumination took place after the sun set. We still aren’t too sure about this, but we saw what must have been people holding red lights along the shore all around the bay. More than 100 people must have been involved.

A sample of the sidewalk art

A portion of the grand illumination

We will be here for about 10 days as we get a number of projects taken care of, visit Sandra’s sister Paula and brother Scott and then travel to New Hampshire to visit our daughter Sam and her family one last time before heading out of New England. So we will be here till Labor Day or longer, and depart depending on the Marine weather and on that topic we keep a close watch on the tropics to be aware of any hurricane development that might impact our travel. My next update is likely to be coming in September as we move south of New England. 

Carpe Diem 

Captain Bob

Yes, We Are Still In Maine

Well actually it would be better to say that we are back into Maine. After completing the last blog post, we went to New Hampshire and spent 2 weeks with Samantha and our grandsons and family including a birthday party for Jeremy Chris and Ryan and had a good time there. We then all returned to Maine  and enjoyed a week at a cabin on Great Island, not far from Great Island Boatyard where we had left our boat. Everyone enjoyed time at the beach, climbing among the rocks and eating the seafood (except Jenn, our vegan daughter). Jenn joined us there after two weeks of camping as far as Cape Breton Island in Nova Scotia.

The sunset view from our cabin’s deck

At the end of the week, Sam and her family left while Jenn stayed for a couple days so we could take advantage of her car to get some provisioning accomplished. The she headed back south, and we headed downeast. 

We continued to be blessed with good weather as we headed to Rockland. The harbor is large and full of all sorts of boats including a Navy ship. It’s also protected by two lighthouses, one at Owls Head and the other at the end of the harbor breakwater. ( I got pictures of several others on the way there.)

Lighthouse at the entrance to Rockland Harbor

We were surprised to learn that the annual lobster festival was under way as we arrived. Hence the town was a bit busier and noisier than normal. That didn’t prevent us from checking out several shops downtown or enjoying a great lunch at Clan McLaren.

We were contacted by Donna Schlahman, a cruiser we had met in Marathon who was to be  in Rockland with a group from Boothbay Harbor visiting the Sail, Steam…Museum. She invited us to join them for a tour led by the curator. It was fascinating, and we learned quite a bit about the history of Rockland and the importance of sailing ships that were built there. 

Next we headed east again to Vinalhaven. Thanks to our Active Captain app, we learned of a great protected anchorage in Seal Bay, complete with the seals for which it was named. We spent a couple of days there exploring the islands, watching seals and generally enjoying this beautiful spot that represents so well the rugged coastline.

Some of the seals of Seal Bay

Below are results of our exploration of the Bay.

Even Maddy enjoyed our exploring.

Lots of rock

And of course beautiful sunsets

 We then moved further downeast to Mt. Dessert Island and Acadia National Park. We spent our first night here anchored by Southwest Harbor. We went in for a meal, lobster for Sandra and mussels for me. The next day we sailed up Somes Sound, the only fiord on the East coast. The steeply rising hills on each side were quite spectacular.

This is what portions of the shoreline looked like in the Sound. 

 Anchoring in a great spot at the end of the Sound, we dinghied in to the town dock of Somesville and checked out the town. The commercial center is comprised of a bank, post office and a general store – not too exciting. But the anchorage made up for any shortcomings of the town.  And we even saw and heard a loon that was swimming near us. We were surprised to see one in the ocean during the summer, but we did.

This may be a good time to digress a bit to focus on the lobstering that we see here on the coast. Lobster pot bouys dominate the coast – as much as we’ve seen at least. We rarely traveled anywhere that didn’t have bouys around, and in some areas they were so numerous that one had to steer carefully to avoid catching one on the prop. 

Lots of lobster pots

In Somes Sound alone there were hundreds, and the Sound was narrow and less than five miles long. In one area during our transit to Mount Dessert Island, we saw eight lobster boats picking up traps. They were all less than a quarter of a mile from each other. It’s just hard to imagine how many lobster are down there to be caught. Last year more than 100 million pounds were sold, and all the studies indicate that this is a sustainable level!  

We bought these two from a lobsterman as he was hauling traps near our boat.

While I’m not sure how accurate this info is, I did hear of a couple of reasons for the increase in the lobster population in spite of the expansion in the number of traps. The coast of Maine has been over fished, so the predators of young lobsters are gone. The other part is the lobster trap itself. When a camera was placed in traps, it was learned that these devices are not really trapping them. The bait put in the traps is feeding the lobsters who then get back out as easily as they got in. The ones unlucky enough to be in the”trap” when it’s hauled up are the only ones caught. Some call this operation farming rather than trapping. The bottom line is that the lobster population is not shrinking in spite of the increases in the number hauled each year. Of course for us the real bottom line is to enjoy eating them while we’re here and to watch carefully to avoid getting tangled in a trap line.

This schooner returned to Bar Harbor from a foggy sail.

As this post is being written, we are anchored by Bar Harbor. We’ll be here another day before checking out a few other great stops in the area before getting serious about heading south.

Till the next time we have good Internet coverage.. .

Carpe Diem

Captain Bob

Maine At Last

A bit of time has passed since the last update. We spent a portion of that time in Onset getting the boat cleaned and reorganized after our travel from the Chesapeake. That included a 5 mile round trip walk to a grocery store and several loads of laundry. We also got our first order of fried clams since entering New England – really good!


                  Relaxing in Onset

We had family visits during our time in this quaint coastal village. First Sandra’s sister Paula arrived with Pam, her sister-in-law.  We had a great, relaxing visit.

Then Sam came with her family and Jenn.  She and Jenn had just completed another trail run together, this one a 25K in Stow, VT. The boys had a great time on the boat as well as kayaking or on dinghy rides.


                Nathan kayaking


     Chris and Ryan in the dinghy with Jeremy.

All left at the end of the day except for Jenn and her dog Kaya who would be joining us for the next leg of our cruise.

Having filled our water and fuel tanks, we headed out through the Cape Cod Canal the next morning as soon as the tidal current had began flowing the right direction for us.


  Jenn and Kaya on the bow as we head up the canal

The sun was shining and the wind made possible for some motor sailing most of the trip to Boston Harbor. Our anchorage provided a sunset view of the Boston skyline, and the nearby beach offered us lots of sea glass as well as ample running space for the dogs.


  Yet another lighthouse, this one south of Boston Harbor


           Our sunset view of Boston

Since the forecast called for continued decent weather, we continued north the next morning, making our way between the many islands in Boston Harbor before heading back out to sea.


One of several older forts on islands in the harbor

After a couple of showers and some rolly conditions, we got north of Cape Ann and set a course for Kittery Point, our first stop in Maine.

Pepperill Cove has moorings near the town docks and a small grocery story (very small). The cove is not well protected from ocean swells, so we spent a night being rocked to sleep…or not.


  The fog lifted briefly before we headed out.

We woke up the next morning to thick fog. By the time we were ready to leave, the fog had lifted a bit in the cove, but we found thick fog once we were out of the harbor. It remained with us all day, during which our greatest challenge was avoiding lobster pot buoys.

As we approached Casco Bay, a line of thunderstorms came through. The only good aspect was that it cleared out the fog and provided us with bright sun and a rainbow as we arrived at our anchorage at Jewell Island, one of our favorite spots in the Bay.



      The anchorage at Jewell Island is well protected.


   This side of Jewell is open to ocean swells.


    First to welcome us to Casco Bay

Jewell is open to the ocean on one side but provides a protected anchorage on the other. It was a site for submarine watching during WWII. To that end two towers were built to provide a clear view of the water out from there. There was also a gun emplacement, tunnels to store munitions and supplies as well as a  barracks for soldiers. Much is now gone, but the towers can be climbed for a view of the area and the tunnels can still be explored .

Next we were off to a mooring in So. Freeport and a 3 mile walk into Freeport to LLBean and a number of outlet stores. We always find it fun to wander through LLBean’s even if we don’t end up buying much.


South Freeport is full of boats on moorings.

Having a mooring meant we could do laundry and refill the water and fuel tanks before heading out the next morning. Casco Bay is familiar territory for us, since we sailed here for several summers before moving to Virginia. We headed over to another favorite – the Gosling’s – where we can walk around a couple of small islands and pretty much guarantee that we’ll see seals on neàrby rocks. We weren’t disappointed. We did some kayaking and I set my dinghy for sailing and enjoyed a breeze that afternoon . 


  Seals gather on these rocks each day at low tide.


       Jenn and Kaya enjoy kayaking.

The next day we got a bit of nice sailing  in the big boat as we traveled to Long Cove well up into Harpswell Sound.  Getting there required  passing through a maze of lobster buoys far more congested than are the crab and lobster buoys in the Keys. It’s not really a problem for us, though, as long as we pay attention.

This hurricane hole of an anchorage is now providing us with time for more kayaking and to see more seals as well exploring the neighborhood by foot and dinghy.

We do seem to by bouncing around a bit now, but the anchorages are between 5 and 12 miles apart. So we aren’t spending much of each day traveling.

A number of people we’ve talked with concerning cruising in Maine have expressed worry about the fog and the rocks. We’ve experienced both during this trip already. The fog is less of an issue if you have radar, AIS and a good chartplotter. The good thing about rocks, unlike the sand and mud of more southern areas, is that the rocks don’t move, so the charts are accurate. A good example of this can be found in the Active Captain description of how best to enter Long Cove, our current anchorage. Ledges were described on both sides of the entrance making entry sound a bit intimidating. However, following the instructions and acting cautiously, the entry was without issue and turns out to be well worth the effort.


These rocks may be hidden under the surface at high tide, but the chart tells you where they are.

Too many miss the opportunity to cruise the spectacular coast of Maine for these unwarranted fears.

More to come of our Maine adventure.

Carpe Diem
Captain Bob

Transition to New Territories

Just as transitioning from the ICW to the Chesapeake Bay was an obvious change, so too is the transition from the Chesapeake Bay to the Northeast. We left Chesapeake City on schedule Monday afternoon and headed out to an anchorage in the Delaware River. There was nothing special about the view from this location unless you like to look at a nuclear power plant.


The next day we traveled down the Delaware River and Delaware Bay to Cape Henlopen, a very peaceful spot with good protection from pretty much all directions.


This lighthouse protected our anchorage at Cape Henlopen.


We had delayed our travel down Delaware Bay so that the next day when we headed up the coast in New Jersey for an overnight sail to New York the weather would be conducive to comfortable travel. Tuesday turned out to be as predicted – surprise, surprise. The seas were a little lumpy at times but by and large it was comfortable sailing especially through the night. Although I did my best to guess the time it would take us to travel, once again I found it difficult. The tidal current at times would slow us as predicted, but other times wasn’t as strong as predictions. Although we wanted to approach NYC in the daylight and slowed our progress to help make that happen, we still approached the busy area before sunrise. That said, there was enough light from so many sources as we approached the metropolis that we had little trouble. 


The Verrazano Narrows Bridge welcomed us to New York Harbor.

What did surprise us was the number of freighters and barges attached to tugs that were anchored in the harbor. Thanks to AIS, we knew which were moving and which were parked. By 6:30 AM we were anchored in the cove at Liberty Park, just in from Liberty herself.


The anchorage was more crowded than we like, but we were crashing for a few hours before moving up the East River and on to Port Washington where we were to spend a couple of nights. We figured we could handle the time to get a few hours sleep even if it was a bit crowded.


The view of the New York skyline were magnificent. Here is the 9/11 MemorIal,


       And the Empire State Building


And one of the many ferries we had to watch for

The travel from Liberty to Hell’s Gate where the East River is met by the Harlem River was pretty bizarre. We’ve been to NYC a number of times, but one gets no sense of the river traffic when driving around Manhattan. We were on constant watch for tugs, ships and high speed ferries which can move up to four times our speed. They know where they’re going, but we have to guess about it and do our best to stay out of the way. The heavy traffic only lasted an hour or so, and then thing settled down some.

We had planned to arrive at Hell’s Gate at slack tide, and that worked out well. So the final stretch to Port Washington was easy and peaceful. This town offers free moorings close to the town docks, and several were available when we arrived.

After a day of recovery and  grocery shopping, we moved on to Long Island Sound. The forecast for the next few days was good, but then stormy weather was forecast. Therefore we wanted to get to Onset by the western end of the Cape Cod Canal before that hit.


One of several lighthouses on the Sound. In each area we traveled,the lighthouses had a little different look to them.


Just one more beautiful sunset, this one at Block Island.

After two days travel in the Sound, we ended at Block Island for a night before heading up through Buzzards Bay to Onset. All went well, and we were safely anchored for the night before the thunderstorm hit. We’ll stay here for a few days preparing for a couple of family visits to our boat on the weekend.

Onset is a stop we’ve made in the past, and we always enjoy our time here. Although not officially part of Cape Cod, it does seem like it’s part of it with character typical of the Cape. The Bay here is well protected and just off the Canal. We can time our departure to take advantage of the strong current that runs there. It can run up near 5 knots at times, helping to carry us in to Cape Cod Bay and points north.


Had to include another lighthouse, this one on the north end of Block Island after sunrise.

So in the past week or so we’ve come from one setting (the Chesapeake) through a second which is quite different (NYC) to a third with its own special character (southern NE and the Cape).  This sort of travel points to one of the real advantages of cruising and helps us better appreciate the rich variety our country offers.

More variety to come as we move up the coast.

Carpe Diem
Captain Bob