All posts by Captainbob36

I have been living aboard Carpe Diem with my wife Sandra since 1998. We began cruising more seriously in 2007. Our travels have taken us from the coast of Maine to The Bahamas and Bermuda. We now spend our winter months in the Keys based in Marathon. During the warmer months, we either leave the boat in Florida or travel up the coast, sometimes to Virginia and other times to Maine.

Exploring the Rio Negro in the Amazon region of Brazil

We had decided to join our Tai Chi instructor Jeff Pinkus and his wife for this trip to the Amazon six months ago. Since making the decision, we’ve been preparing by reading, getting our visas and convincing ourselves that this was a safe thing to do. We were told that we’d see few if any mosquitoes, we’d be safe swimming in the river with piranha and that we should not worry about all the other strange and exotic wildlife. 

It would be warm. After all, we’d be within three degrees of the equator. But our sleeping accommodation would be air conditioned.  It would be an adventure for us. Of that we had no doubts. In spite of the apprehension, we were excited to make the trip. We’d be living on a boat nearly 100 feet long with 17 other guests. We’d get all our meals prepared on the boat as well. The leader of the trip spoke English, but the rest of the crew spoke Portuguese and could handle only a little English. (Of course their English was better than our Portuguese.) 

We packed carefully and headed for Miami airport after leaving our dog Maddie with my sister in West Palm Beach. We hadn’t been flying for a few years, so all the technology was a surprise. We got through without incident.  The flight left at 5:30PM and got us to Manaus, Brazil by 11PM. The contrast between the two airports was dramatic. In spite of a population of nearly 2 million, the airport was nearly empty. All went well until we got to customs, and we learned that our visas were” inactive”. After a delay of several minutes, they finally decided we could be allowed into the country, since they determined that the issue was a glitch at their end. 

We then loaded into a small bus and were driven to the boat. All went well there, and we quickly got settled in our room. Soon we gathered for introductions of the crew and our fellow passengers and were offered what was described as the national drink. Don’t remember the name, but it included a whole, crushed lime, some rum, sugar and ice – well received by most all of the weiry travelers.

The boat we traveled on for ten days

By the time we got to bed, it was 2AM, so they let us sleep in to about 6AM before our first canoe trip. Most every morning after that we were aroused earlier with the singing of Pavarotti over the loudspeaker. A canoe trip generally happened before breakfast to avoid the midday heat when possible. Because we did most of the traveling at night, we explored a new area each morning. Occasionally there would be an additional daytime trip and on other occasions we’d go out after dark to see our nocturnal neighbors.

Our mode of travel during daily exploration

The trip changed our view of the Amazon. Movies and National Geographic films gave a single impression, but for us, every day was different. We were on the Rio Negro, one of the major rivers that makes up the Amazon. As the name implies, the water is dark and not muddy. In one area the water was more acidic than vinegar and looked red. We saw steep embankments and broad, sandy flats. The shoreline was at times thick with growth while at other times showing little undergrowth. Some trees were not more than 30 feet tall while others nearby rose up more than 100 feet with most branches forming a ball at the top.

Some trees are partially under water even during low water.

 

Some areas near shore remain underwater much of the year, hence no undergrowth.
While other areas appear as classic jungle scene.
The lighter colored bark is termite tunneling. They were in evidence everywhere. But they didn’t harm the tree. They fed on the dead wood nearby.

Another new perspective related to the animal life in the Amazon. Again movies gave us the impression that it was alive with animal noises, and animals and insects would be nearly ever present.  What we found was that, like animals in more northern areas, they hide well and live in specific niches. Our guides knew where to take us, so we saw a wide variety in our ten days on the river. 

Pirahna have small but sharp teeth.

A baby caimen. Black Caimen can grow to 18 feet.

A Tree Boa about 4 feet long

Many birds did not hide well, so we saw nearly 100 different species including hawks, parrots, kingfishers, herons and songbirds. The pink river dolphins didn’t hide much, but they spent so little time getting each breath, that we got no photos. We also saw caimen (alligator family), giant otters, monkeys, electric eels, pirahna and lots of other fish, some of which we ate, bats that were described as the smallest mammal at a mere 3 grams, snakes (no anacondas), a sloth, and surprisingly few insects during the day. (plenty attracted to the light at night). We also saw some spiders and undertook an after dark hunt for tirantulas.

One of the dancers with a necklace of caimen teeth

We visited a few small villages, a town of about 10K residents, and also spent part of a day in Manaus. We found the people in each setting to be friendly even though we couldn’t speak the language. At one stop a group from a tribe way up the river demonstrated examples of their dances. They also offered snacks. I tried the popcorn termites – not bad.

Note that the homes along the river are on stilts even though they are well above the current river level.
Two great rivers, the Rio Negro (black water) and the Solimoes ( white water) meet near Manaus to form the Amazon. The two flow side by side for miles before mingling.

Throughout the trip the boat crew was terrific – helpful, friendly and always seem to know what was needed. Junior, their leader, displayed his sincere love for his homeland.

In ten days we saw a great deal of a very small portion of the Amazon. Although we traveled nearly 300 miles, by looking at a map of the Amazon, we realize that we only touched the smallest portion of this emence treasure. This recounting includes a glimpse of what we were able to see. We returned tired but also having gained a new appreciation for this part of the world. 

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Our summer as dirt dwellers

Following our adventure out to the Dry Tortugas, we sailed up to Vero Beach and left Carpe Diem on a mooring, so we could travel north by car to visit family and friends and to do a bit of camping. Before leaving Carpe Diem, we prepared her for a possible storm since this would be hurricane season in Florida. Given last year’s experience with Matthew, we couldn’t be too careful. 

One of many bridges that opened for us.
One way people get around in Ft. Lauderdale.
Maddie was ready for travel!

The next two months went pretty much as planned. We visited with cruising friends in Daytona, family members and other friends in North Carolina and both daughters – Jenn in VA and Samantha, Jeremy and our grandsons in New Hampshire.  Plans only got a bit unraveled when hurricane Irma decided to attack the Keys and the rest of Florida. But I’ll get to that in a bit.

After a short visit with Jenn, we collected our camping gear and headed into North Carolina to visit my sister Kathy and family and Sandra’s sister Kim and her family. We then continued on to Asheville and the Blue Ridge Parkway for a week of camping. 

This portion of the Eastern mountains is really quite spectacular. The parkway travels a series of ridges nearly as high as 6000 ft above sea level, but to do so required the construction of a series of tunnels, making for some interesting driving.


Mountain Laurel was in bloom in many areas at higher elevations

View from Mt. Mitchell

We stayed  first at a state park by a pond, then up on the ridge and finally near the top of Mt Mitchell (the highest peak east of the Mississippi). All went well except for the one night on Mt. Mitchell ( it was supposed to be two). In spite of the heat at lower elevations, we had comfortable temps for sleeping at altitude during our camping.

As I mentioned earlier, we spent one night on Mt. Mitchell instead of the two we had planned. The ranger stopped by during the evening and told us the prospect of bad weather seemed to have diminished, so we should have a good night. (We were out of cell range, so we didn’t have another weather source. The evening was really nice. However it began to rain and blow around midnight. We were at about 6400 feet on the tallest mountain around so little protection from the weather. The rain came in torrents and the wind must have gusted around 40 or better. It was strong enough to blow the rain under our tent fly and into the tent. We gave up and headed for the car at about 5 AM. The rain soon let up some, so we packed up our drenched camping gear and head down the mountain by 7AM.

We returned to Jenn’s a day early and dried all our gear and then headed further north to Sam’s in New Hampshire. We planned to stay for most of August. We also visited Sandra’s sister Paula and brother Scott in MA as well as spending time in the mountains of NH camping. We had a great visit which also included a weekend camping in Maine with Sam and family.

A day at Lake Winnipesaukee with our grandsons

We enjoyed a number of waterfalls in NH.

This spectacular scene of the Presidential Range was shot on the grounds of the Mt. Washington Hotel
After Labor Day, we began our traveling back to Florida. Our first stop was at Jenn’s in VA. This lasted longer than expected since we decided not travel to Florida with Hurricane Irma approaching. We were concerned about our boat as well as our ultimate destination of Marathon in the Keys.
As it turned out the boat was fine, but Marathon not so good.  We waited a few days to be sure that Vero Beach City Marina had power and water. In spite of our expectation that the highway would be crowded with Floridians returning home, the traffic wasn’t bad. The motel we spent a night at in GA, was mostly full of people from Florida waiting for the best time to return. We saw quite a few power trucks and other trucks heading south to refill grocery stores. But otherwise the travel was uneventful.

Once back in Vero, we moved the boat to a slip so we could get AC and have an easier time getting it cleaned up (read mold) and restocked.  We did see evidence of storm damage, mostly in piles of tree branches and a few blow downs. 


Most of that effort is now behind us and we are preparing for our next adventure: a ten day trip on the Amazon River in mid October.  More on that in another blog following our return. We are keeping a close watch on the progress in Marathon via friends who are there as well as through social media. We feel so bad for them but are beginning to be a little more encouraged by how much help is there for their recovery. We still hope to get there this winter, but won’t know for sure for some time.

Carpe Diem

Captain Bob

Off to the Dry Tortugas

For the past several years the Dry Tortugas has been on our to-do list but never accomplished. Jenn was interested in joining us for a trip to the Dry Tortugas but couldn’t come until June. We thought that might work out well, since there tends to be less wind in the Keys during the summer months than during the winter months. Leading up to Jenn’s arrival we had a couple weeks of hot steamy weather with wind and thunderstorms on a daily basis. We were  concerned that the trip might not happen again  this year. But it turned out that Mother Nature was on our side, thus this story of our trip to the Dry Tortugas.

Jenn drove down and met us at Vero Beach. We decided to drive our car to the Vero Beach Marina and leave it there so that we wouldn’t have to make the trip and then rent a car to get back   to the boat after she left, since we’d heading north then ourselves. It worked out well. Since she was going right by Vero Beach on our way south, she could pick us up and save us that extra trip. It also gave her a chance to have a little company for the last several hours of her trip to the Keys. 

After a day of adjusting to our setting Jenn joined us for a dinner at our Tai Chi instructor’s home, Jeff and  Beth Pinkus. Jeff is a great chef and seemed to enjoy the challenge of putting together a vegan dinner on Jenn’s behalf.

The weather forecast suggested that we leave for the Dry Tortugas the next day. Although there were predicted thunderstorms and rain showers everyday, there was not a lot of wind in the predictions, so we decided to take advantage. Our travel plan required that we anchor where the dogs get ashore each day, since Jenn’s dog Kaya would not do her business on the boat. The first day was a short day – 12 miles out to Bahia Honda State Park. 

Anchored by the bridge at Bahia Honda

The sun rising over the Bahia Honda campground as we left.

The next day we traveled the full day out past Key West to a small key called Boca Grande. We didn’t get dumped on by any thunderstorms but did slowdown a bit to avoid one that went by. 

To be avoided

We also slowed down again because our prop picked up a bunch of old line that may have been used for a crab pot. This required stopping the boat and me diving in to cut the line off the prop. It was easily accomplished, and then we were back traveling again. We had another full day the next day going out to the Dry Tortugas.

We were definitely sailing in blue water!

 Once again the weather cooperated. We had 2 foot waves with a light Breeze helping to push us along. We began to see more signs of life along the way. These included three sea turtles, one of which was a large leather back – rare species that we had never seen before. We also had dolphins stop by the boat on a number of occasions to check out our bow wave.

We had officially arrived.

Arriving at our anchorage by the fort at the Dry Tortugas by mid-afternoon, we were able to go ashore, register and then do some snorkeling around the fort. While the water wasn’t as clear as advertised, it was pretty clear, and we saw lots of small fish around the pilings of the docks. Our only hesitation about snorkeling near the fort was because of the many stories about the 10 foot crocodile that lived there. It turns out we needn’t have worried, since they had decided the risks were great enough to force the park rangers to capture the crocodile and move him to a safer location outside the park. 

Former home of the crocodile

One group of residents we found there we had heard nothing about before our arrival. On the island next to the fort we found the nesting site for approximately 40 to 50 thousand sooty terns. In addition there were several thousand brown noddies nesting. The noddies were a particularly interesting member of the local community. They seemed to have no fear of us and a great interest in landing on boats. 

A few of our uninvited guests

Our dogs managed to keep them off our boat most of the time and seemed to have fun barking and chasing up and down deck of the boat to keep them off. At times they hovered over our dinghy as we traveled back and forth to shore and seemed close enough that we thought we could reach up and touch them. The sooty turns were not quite as friendly but managed to fly around the boat constantly. As you can imagine, the noise was constant day and night – birds squawking and flying about. It seemed they never slept during the night even. That is not to say that the birds were annoying. They were actually quite interesting to watch and we were glad to have been there during their nesting season. 

A few thousand of our neighbours.

The second day we waited until we could see that the mooring on Loggerhead Key was available and then motored over. We picked up the mooring and then went ashore and snorkeled on the west side of the key. This was an area where the reef was right at shore, and we were able to swim within 100 feet of shore and see lots of coral and a variety of interesting small fish. Upon returning to the boat we found the mooring line had somehow wrapped around our rudder post, so once again I was back in the water to get things corrected.

The lighthouse on Loggerhead Key

Upon returning to our Anchorage by the fort, we determined that it was late enough in the day with these heat dissipating that and we decided to take advantage of that to do a little of our own touring. I should also mention that the large ferry had left for the day and the other visitors who came by sea plane had also left. (Anchoring in this harbor had its unique feature since seaplanes came in two or three times a day right through the harbor up to the beach so the visitors could get off and tour the island.) 

We got a chance to explore the fort when we were nearly the only ones there. We learned much about this unusual fort that was never really completed for its original purpose of protecting Naval vessels that would protect the the important shipping channels. My first question once in the fort was why build it in the middle of the ocean far from any land. Other forts we had visited all protected some population center like St. Augustine, Charleston, Norfolk, or even Key West. There is a large harbor here which could provide weather protection for the Naval vessels. Major shipping routes pass nearby: ships sailing from the East coast to Cuba, Central America, New Orleans, etc. So we learned something new.

The travel back was reported to be the more challenging aspect of the trip. Since the winds generally blow out of the east, we would be heading into the wind the whole trip back. If the wind is strong and the waves are large, it becomes an interesting adventure. Many people end up stuck at the Dry Tortugas for days waiting for the winds to die down enough to travel. We were far enough from Key West that we were out of phone and radio contact. Our only source of weather information was posted once a day by the park rangers. 

Not exactly rough travel weather!

For us, once again Mother Nature was very helpful. There were some swells coming out of the southeast on the ocean, but if we traveled a more northerly route north of some shallows we could avoid those swells. The winds were expected to be light and the predicted storms never got close. The weather was very sunny. We traveled in northern route and at times noted that the water was like glass. There was no wind – only a puff now and then and any stormy weather was well off in the distance.

We had never anchored in Key West but had heard lots of stories about how unpleasant it was there. We were concerned that coming in late in the day we might have trouble finding a place to anchor. However we needn’t have worried​. We had picked out or most likely spot on our chart and found that it was open to us. We also noted that a couple on a trimaran that had been near us in Boot Key Harbor were anchored right next to us.

Lots of people want to see the sunset from Key West, but few get this view.

Getting ashore by Dinghy was not particularly Pleasant trip. There is no limit to speed for any boats in the harbor, so it was a bit lumpy, and we were careful to be seen by passing large boats. Downtown Key West held no surprises. There were lots of people, lots of drinking, and lots of tourist traps. Having been to Key West many times before, it was as expected.

The next morning we headed out for our last day of travel on this trip. The weather prediction, aside from the normal prediction of showers and thunderstorms, seemed to be fine. Out in Hawk Channel we found the waves not too bad and the wind pretty light, so we considered the possibility of stopping at Sombrero Key for one last snorkel before heading into Boot Key Harbor. 

Sombrero Key Light

When we got there in mid-afternoon, we found all the moorings taken since the weather was so nice. We idled along for 10 or 15 minutes until mooring opened up, and we were able to tie up. The snorkeling here was great; the water was pretty clear and there were lots of fish – probably more fish than we saw at the Dry Tortugas. In fact there were enough fish that Jenn decided to put together a list of all the different varieties we saw. Once we finished our snorkeling, we headed back into Boot Key Harbor another hour’s travel. We stopped and got some fuel, water and ice and ended up back on our mooring – a great trip ended.

Captain Bob

Carpe Diem

Adventure Update

Well in spite of my intentions to report on our adventures in a more timely way this past winter, it is already late May, and I’m only now getting around to updating everyone. I could use the excuse that we did little of interest during the past four months, but that wouldn’t be a true statement. So this blog update should be just that – an update of what we’ve been up to.

Rather than merely provide a chronological report, I’ll attempt to organize this into categories. I’ll begin by reporting on our stay at a dock at the marina we reported on in the last update. We stayed for three months and found lots to be said for the convenience of dock life. Water was easy as pulling a hose to fill our tank. We could step off and walk to our car or to the shower or laundry. No dinghy rides were necessary. However, we missed being somewhat alone on a mooring without thinking about who might be walking by the boat. We thought kayaking here might be a nice change, but found it to offer less interesting spots to visit and we had to be careful to stay out of the way of small fishing boats and jet skis. We were open to more wave action at times which required us to purchase a couple of really large fenders, and even then we had to remain alert on windy, bouncy nights.

In mid March we hauled the boat to renew the bottom paint and decided that was a good time to return to a mooring in Boot Key Harbor. The spot we’d had for the previous four winters was not available, but we did manage to get one very close by with similar views. We’ve enjoyed some great kayaking and I’ve also enjoyed a bit of dinghy sailing in the Harbor. Having spent the last two+ months on this mooring, we can still say that we made a good decision.

Our typical peaceful evening view.

As I had mentioned in the last update, we returned to Tai Chi class after returning in December. Sandra was approached by another student to teach her and a couple of friends how to design and create pine needle baskets.  In time others wanted to join as well. This resulted in several passionate followers who will pick this up again when all return in the fall.

One of her most recent projects

We enjoyed a couple of family visits so far this year. My sister Mary Jo and her family came down for a brief visit, so there son Toby could spend time in the water with dolphins where I volunteer – Dolphin Research Center. He had a great experience.

Toby “shaking hands” with a dolphin

Soon afterwards our daughter Samantha and family came down for a week. Although they have come nearly every winter we’ve been here, each time is special in a new way. This is in part because our three grandsons are a bit older with each visit. This one might be called the snorkeling visit. All three boys really enjoyed snorkeling in Key West and Bahia Honda. Additionally, Chris went into a pool to feed lots of tropical fish as well as a shark at a new facility in Marathon.

Chris in the pool where he got to feed a shark

Sam and our three grandsons feeding parrot fish

Our other daughter Jenn and her dog will be joining us early next month as we hope to sail to the Dry Tortuga’s, an island group about 70 miles west of Key West. Included is an old fort, lots of good snorkeling we hear in clear water. It’s run by the National Park Service.

Our Tai Chi instructor and his wife, now good friends of ours, are planning a trip to the Amazon next fall. They’ve done this before several times and described the area as one of the most beautiful in the world. They suggested that we consider joining them and, after some careful consideration, we decided to do so. By October, we will be in our fiftieth year of marriage, so this is how we’ve decided to celebrate! We’ll spend ten days on a 100 foot boat cruising the Rio Negro out of Manaus, Brazil. We are really quite excited.

After returning to the mooring, we were back to using the dinghy for daily transportation. Sandra doesn’t wish to deal with the outboard, having troubles starting it and dealing with the choke as well as its temperamental nature. After some exploring, we bought an electric motor and sold the gas outboard. This unit, a German model, is much lighter, starts with a push of a button, and allows us to get gasoline off the boat. She finds it easy to operate as do I. We are happy with the change. Of course this addition does put more pressure on our limited charging capacity which was already strained. Bottom line, we’ll be adding solar panels in the fall.

Speaking of adding or making changes, our main ripped, and sail makers told us that it had outlived it’s useful life. We figured that we’d have to buy a new one. Most of our traveling at that point in our trip south would have to be with the engine. We had decided to hold off till after the new year, but hadn’t gotten around to it by the time we arrived at the mooring field. The day after we arrived another Beneteau just like ours arrived next to us. We got together and learned that they had the original main in storage, since they had a new one made soon afterward buying the boat. They happily sold it to us really cheap. A great benefit to us who had recently had the Bimini replaced and bought the outboard soon after.

As I mentioned earlier, my nephew Toby went to the Dolphin Research Center to spend time with the dolphins. Of course, I spend time there every week. This year I got certified to assist with giving them water. It turns out that dolphins in the wild get all their water from the fish they eat by breaking down the fat. But just like with humans, dolphins maintain better health with extra water. So most of the adult dolphins get from 2 to 6 liters of extra water each day. Generally I now assist with this process for at least one and as many as ten dolphins each day that I volunteered. Next fall upon my return, I hope to become a docent. This will have me walking around and talking to visitors about what goes on there. I’ll have to do some studying to become more knowledgeable, but I look forward to that.

Now having volunteered once each week for three seasons, I qualified for a chance to meet with a dolphin and get a tow around the lagoon. Since I had already done much of what was included in this encounter, I gave it to Sandra. She thoroughly enjoyed the experience. It may have been the final incentive to convince her to volunteer next season as well.

Sandra got a ride around the lagoon thanks to Louie, a dolphin saved from the aftermath of the BP oil spill and now doing very well.

Now that it’s almost June, we’re beginning to get more summer like weather. That means more heat and humidity than we are used to during the season you probably call winter. Our fans are spinning most of the time and we get into the water multiple times each day. But the water temp is already into the mid 80s, it’s help is limited. After Jenn’s visit and our trip to the Dry Tortugas, we’ll begin our northern trek – mostly by car, since we plan to leave the boat in Vero Beach again. But more on all that in another blog post.

Carpe Diem

Captain Bob

Returning to Marathon, Our “Winter” Home

Not being on a schedule this year traveling south, we did our best to avoid problems that might arise if we were forced to travel when we shouldn’t. We also stayed on the ICW rather than going out in the ocean to save time, because the weather wasn’t conducive, and we had plenty of time. The one occasion when we didn’t follow our own guidance was leaving Vero Beach. We had determined years ago to avoid traveling on the ICW in South Florida on the weekend. It’s not unlike at times going to a shopping mall on Black Friday. Lots of little boats zipping around with water skis and jet skis paying no attention to who else is out there and creating blockages at times around bridge openings. Since we left Vero Beach on the Friday after Thanksgiving, it was clear that we would be traveling for the next three days through Palm Beach and Fort Lauderdale to Miami on weekend like conditions – maybe worse.   

We were lucky. The conditions weren’t as bad as we had expected. The one interesting experience we had was passing through the Palm Beach area. President elect Trump was at his resort there on the water for Thanksgiving, and the sheriff’s department as well as the Coast Guard were vigilant at keeping boats away from his resort shoreline and making sure nobody did anything foolish. That meant that we had an escort along a three-mile stretch of the ICW. Everybody seemed friendly, but they were ready for trouble as noted by the machine gun in the bow of the Coast Guard boat.

Our travel south of the Palm Beach area went pretty smoothly, and we managed to make good time between bridges. For those who haven’t read our earlier blogs or have yet to make the trip from Palm Beach to Miami, you should know that there are nearly 30 bridges, most which open on a schedule. The key is to be able to keep to the schedule. We had to push the boat to make the schedule, and we were lucky that the tidal current helped us along the way. This is familiar territory for us, and we knew where to anchor away from crowds and where we could replenish our food and water for the final few days of travel.

Lots of wealth evident in this part of the ICW.A view from our Miami anchorage.

Leaving Miami, we traveled down Biscayne Bay to Pumpkin Key. Then we spent a day traveling in Hawk Channel before going under the Channel Five bridge and completing our travels by arriving at the Harbour Cay Club our “winter” home this season.

This sight told us that we’d arrived in the Keys.

Leaving our anchorage near the Channel Five bridge at sunrise.

Our new home appears to be a friendly, small marina on the Florida Bay side of Marathon. We’ve already met a few of the pelicans that call this spot home. We were also visited by a manatee.

Our boat at her winter home. Note the  neighbor on the post. He is one of several daily visitors.

More of those daily visitors on rocks near our slip

This manatee appeared to be quite interested in our dinghy.

Our annual holiday trip north took us away from here for two weeks, but in the short time we’ve been here, we have already met a number of fellow boaters and Marathon residents we’d gotten to know during past winters. I’ve begun my volunteer time at the Dolphin Research Center, and Sandra has found several who seek help to make pine needle baskets.

We also made our first trip to Key West, this time to witness a visit of Tibetan monks who spent a week here to promote world peace. While here, they created a peace mandala, a sand design created one grain of sand at a time. See below.

We also attended a meditation which included the playing of singing bowls. Sandra was so intrigued that she bought one.

We’ll try out new, interesting adventures during our stay this year, and I may actually do a better job of reporting on these in more timely manner in future blog posts.

Carpe Diem

Captain Bob

South to Vero Beach

We’ve traveled another 400+ miles along the ICW since the last update sent out as we arrived in Beaufort, SC.  Our stop there provided us the opportunity to meet up with friends we’d known from Newport News and also from Marathon. In both cases, we enjoyed the company and appreciated being driven to stores.  Thanks to Janelle and Bob and to Brian and Jan. Best wishes to you Brian and Jan as you shop for that next boat… assuming that you don’t change your mind. It was sad to see Windchaser in such a sorry state.

Here’s all that remains of their marina.

The terrain has become more subtropical as we’ve traveled south, and the animal life has reflected that fact. We continued to see evidence of Matthew’s work, and we’ve enjoyed good weather just about every day.  

We left Beaufort at sunrise.

For those who wonder why we don’t just go out into the ocean and skip all the busy areas, it’s because the ocean has not been very pleasant. We nolonger are willing to get knocked around just to save a bit of time.

So it took us five days to get through Georgia and into Florida. The travel schedule was influenced by tides, since a few spots were too shallow at low tide for us. We also enjoyed most of a day at Cumberland Island, run by the National park service. Here we walked a couple of miles on a beautiful beach, saw wild horses up close and personal and got a close look at an armadillo – great fun.

This was the only crowd we saw on the beach.

This driftwood was pretty but a bit too large for us to get on the boat.

Our next stop was in St. Augustine, the nation’s oldest city. We always enjoy wandering the streets of this old city and appreciating the architecture. 

Henry Flagler’s first luxury hotel in St.Augustine, now part of Flagler College.

We also knew we needed replacement netting for our lifelines to keep Maddie and things we drop from ending up overboard. We knew of a marine store that sold fish netting that works well and lasts for years, so we made a stop there in addition to other activities.

This was found at the entrance to one of many beautiful galleries in St. Augustine.

Then it was off once again heading further south to Vero Beach. Along this stretch we saw more dolphins and at least a half dozen manatees in addition to several flocks of white pelicans.

We stayed at Vero for a week. This gave us the chance to visit with my sister Mary Jo and her family in West Palm Beach which included a Thanksgiving dinner. We also go our car up to Vero, so we could accomplish a number of errands, visit a couple of great eating  establishments and catch a movie as well. Maddie got to run on the beach, an activity she always enjoys. The downside to the beach walk was to see how much of the sand had been washed away by Matthew. This made us a bit sad and reminded us that nothing remains unchanged.

A good sign as we left Vero Beach

It was a good week, and now we are off once more, heading south of course. We have six or seven more travel days to Marathon. We’ll pass down the ICW through Palm Beach, Ft. Lauderdale and Miami. We find more extreme wealth on display here in this stretch of approximately 90 miles than anywhere else we’ve ever been.
More to come…

Captain Bob

Carpe Diem

 We Continue South And View More Hurricane Impact

Since the last update, we have traveled another 240 miles. (That may not seem like much, but it’s a lot when you’re best speed is about 8 miles per hour with a boost from the tidal current.  

 Our first sunrise in South Carolina

As we left North Carolina and entered South Carolina, we begin to see more evidence of Matthew’s work. A section of the ICW is a narrow canal with steep Banks. Most of it is loose dirt with some areas rock. Because of the rocks present, this portion of the route is a problem for boaters and is called the “Rockpile”.The high water from Matthew created other issues that we noted along the way. The loose embankment didn’t hold up with the high water, so it collapsed bringing down with it trees and bushes. 

We saw many examples of this. We also saw a few docks damaged and boats pushed up onto the shore because of the high water.  

When I reached the Socastee Bridge, we were glad to see that it was still functional. Following the storm, the water rose an additional six feet, creating problems for its electrical system.

 If you look closely at the next photo you will see a line on the vegetation marking the high water there. 

As we traveled down the Waccamaw River, we noted areas where the shoreline was still covered with water. 

During the past couple of days we spent time in remote areas of coastal South Carolina. This area is called Low Country, an appropriate name for the area given the expansive areas at or near sealevel with  little dry land at high tide. This area reminds us of the Everglades with occasional “hammocks”. Hammocks are small pieces of land in the Everglades that generally remain dry enough for trees to grow. Most of the territory both in the Everglades and coastal SC was just grass and very wet with occasional small spots with trees growing. 

Our next stop will be in Beaufort, South Carolina for a couple of days with the chance to visit some friends. Then we’ll venture into Georgia’s remote Coastline. This section of the ICW has some interesting challenges due to shallow water and high tides. One is even called Hell Gate. Once we reach the Florida line, we will still have nearly five hundred miles to go before we reach Marathon.

Carpe Diem

Captain Bob